Hardware setup and schematicįor simplicity, I chose to the 7-pin port D of ATtiny2313 for selecting the segments, and PB0+PB1 for first and second digit display, respectively. Note that for a PNP transistor, you wire the emitter to VCC (in this image it’s pin 3) and collector to the common anode of the display. See this article for more details on PNP switching (the previous page of that link shows NPN switching, by the way). Because the “multiplex switch transistor” is now on VCC side instead of GND side, NPN transistor would not work. Most examples on the net use common cathode displays, in which case NPN transistor is called for, but the ULN2003 which we are using here for each segment is a current sink, which means individual segments need to be wired to it on “minus side” – so we need a common anode type of display. Easiest way to switch on a display is with a transistor, so the microcontroller does not need to sink/source all the current flowing through LEDs – even with only two displays it would most likely exceed MCU specs. Multiplexing means that you are actually switching only one display on at a time, but you do it so fast (at least 60 Hz) that the eye does not notice it. Pretty simple! Multiplexing common anode displays “b” segments are wired via another 330 ohm resistor to O2, and so on. In this tutorial, we’ll be wiring the “a” segments of both seven segment displays to a 330 ohm current-limiting resistor connected to O1 (only one display is on at a time so two displays can share a resistor even if two segments cannot). The datasheet tells that the chip has 2.7 kohm resisors on input side, so I1-I7 can be directly wired to PD0-PD6. The chips I got from Partco had the exact model of ULN2003APG. Number segments are labelled a-g and connected to “side pins”, whereas common cathode/anode occupy the center pin on top and bottom of the display – they are internally connected so we only need to wire one of them.įrom the datasheet picture above, you can see how the pins are numbered (top left schematic), and which pin is connected to which segment (bottom right diagram). Each segment needs its own resistor, otherwise LEDs get dimmer the more segments are lit. Like normal LEDs, you need current-limiting resistors in series. 5V DC voltage source ( USB is one option)Ī seven segment display is basically just 8 LEDs (most include a decimal point) wired so that they share a common cathode or anode.4.7 kohm pullup resistor(or similar value).ULN2003, 7-channel darlington array (NPN, i.e.ATtiny2313 (actually, any AVR chip with 10 output pins will do).You’ll also need the following components: Here’s what we’ll build (click for a larger image):įor this tutorial I assume you know how to connect ATtiny2313 to a programmer and flash it with custom software. So I decided to write a little tutorial on 7 segment multiplexing that walks through all the needed hardware and software in detail. I finally found it in ULN2003, which is inexpensive darlington array that can drive 500 mA from each of its pins. It took me a while to find a good, inexpensive and readily available alternative. It might work, but no one can say for how long! However, if you look at 74HC595 specs you’ll notice that it’s not designed to source the amount of current that is required to drive several multiplexed 7-segment displays. Most sources in the net did not specify hardware at all, and those that did were driving the segments with a 74HC595 shift register and using NPN transistors to enable one common cathode display at a time. Lacking a proper LCD display, I chose to multiplex several 7-segment displays. The reason a started my electronics hobby was that I wanted to build a chess clock.
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